Getting bombarded with different skin products and procedures from all directions? In this two-part series, San Diego dermatologist Dr. Anne Truitt clears up the mayhem of information out there about your skin.
The foundation of healthy skin is sun protection. This is vintage, and like an Oscar De La Renta dress it never goes out of style. It does not matter what else you do, if you do not protect your skin with investments from creams to procedures you will be at the mercy of aging and skin cancer. I recommend to all of my patients to use at least an SPF of 30 with at least 5% or higher of zinc oxide. Flip over the bottle, read the active ingredients, and look for zinc oxide. So many good products are on the market include this important ingredient: Neutrogena sheer zinc, Aveeno mineral, Trader Joe’s zinc spray, Elta MD, Colorescience. Your choice, but pick one (or one for the face and one for the body). Reapply every two hours or more if doing active or water sports. Protective “Jackie-O” sunglasses, clothes, and broad-brimmed hats are part of the package.
Pick a retinoid and stay faithful with its use. If you do nothing else to your face (but why would you do nothing else with so many other new and cutting-edge procedures…see below!), use a topical retinoid, a vitamin A derivative. I use tretinoin prescription cream 0.1% 1-2 times per week at night. Yes, it may make you a bit red and scaly, but mix with a moisturizer and possibly reduce frequency to build up skin tolerance. A retinoid will increase cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, and smooth fine lines. Consider an over-the-counter retinol (i.e., Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair or Roc), also a vitamin A derivative, for a more gentle approach. Whichever you choose, you must be diligent with sun protection as both will make you more sun sensitive.
Neuromodulators: In between vintage and new lies the neuromodulators. These include Botox, Dysport, and Xeomin in the United States. Whether you are for or against the idea of using a toxin, you cannot deny the efficacy of neuromodulators for the control of wrinkles. Botulinum toxin is produced by a bacterium called Clostridium botulinum, and it will block the release of acetylcholine from nerves to muscle junctions. So, what does this mean? The muscle will be temporarily blocked from moving for 3-6 months. Injected in small amounts at the forehead, around the eyes, and lips, it can dramatically reduce the formation of deep forehead grooves, the “eleven” lines between the eyebrows, and crow’s feet. Botox or another product can also be used to produce an upper lip lift. The key to neuromodulators is starting early (in your mid to late 20s) to reduce the formation of wrinkles. A neuromodulator cannot remove a wrinkle, but it can stop it from getting deeper with time and repeated use of the muscle. Do I use a neuromodulator? You bet your deepest wrinkle I do!
And there is so much more to tell….stay tuned for Part II of vintage and cutting-edge skin beauty. For more information please visit my website and catch up on Instagram.